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They say surfing is religion for some people. They say there might be a lot more productivity if surfing didn't exist. They say the ocean heals.

I say - when I stood up on my surfboard yesterday...for the first time after ten struggle-filled session...I literally felt something coalesce within me. And I wasn't even doing anything but riding a surfboard into shore. If I had to give an example of euphoria, that would be it. Even though I went back out again today and could barely ride any waves again, I knew that being out there is something I need. Yeah, maybe I'll never get good at surfing. Yeah, maybe I'll only ever stand up on a board once. But knowing now what it's like to really be connected with the ocean like that. Wow.