Three new things during my 2. 5 hour surf session this morning:
1) It's possible, and quite hilarious, to fall off the front of your surfboard. For the past 3 months, I've been falling (repeatedly) off the side of my board. I'll stand up, lost my balance and then smash into the water, while my board rockets up into the air. Today, however, I did something weird (like attempting to catch a wave that was too big, WAY too late), and wound up standing on the front of my board (for all of .5 seconds), only to find myself doing a full belly-flop into the water. In the time it took for me to hit the water and then submerge, I realized that I had no idea where my board was going to wind up. So I just covered my head, and hoped for the best. Fortunately, nothing exciting happened. I just came out of the water, my board upside down next to me. And I laughed.
2) Swallowing about a gallon of water is nauseating. I don't know how I've managed to avoid drinking half the ocean in all my other times out, but this morning was special. I just couldn't seem to get enough of it. I think at one moment, the water was actually coming in my mouth and nose at the same time. If that's not fun, then I don't know what is.
3) I can actually paddle for ten whole minutes and be almost EXACTLY in the same spot. I'm definitely a champion paddler...go me! The consequence of me actually having left the kiddie pool about a month ago, and trying to catch waves where the big boys go, is that now when I ride the wave in, I get trapped on the inside FOREVER. If I saw me out there, I would think "Huh, that sucks. Must be her first time out." At least I can stand up on my board now (some of the time).
1 comment:
Sounds like you're having the time of your life.
Post a Comment