11 October 2009

Surf Zen

I should mention that on Friday afternoon, I had the best surf session of my life. Maybe it's because the waves were small, there was no wind, there was a double rainbow cutting through the rain clouds. Maybe it's because my muscles finally decided to be in the right alignment at the right time. Or maybe it's just because.

I rested my forehead on my surfboard at one point, and with a huge smile on my face thought...nothing. I just felt it. I still feel it. What is that?

1 comment:

mom said...

Just the shear pleasure of life!!
Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!!!